Some of Tokyo’s most atmospheric sightseeing is done wandering the city’s remaining post-war eating and drinking spots – places like Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku, Nombei Yokocho in Shibuya or “Yakitori Alley” under the train tracks in Yurakucho. Harmonica Yokocho, by the north exit of Kichijoji Station, is one of the most vibrant of these spots: a grid of narrow alleys that come to life at night when the many tiny standing bars and modest restaurants fill with working men and women looking to let off steam after a long day at the office. Walking through these evocative alleys with their retro decor and signature red lanterns is like wandering through the set of an old Toho Studios movie.

AUGUST, 2016